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DIY Road Case Restoration: Turn a Thrift Store Deal into a Pro Studio Case

DIY Road Case Restoration: Turn a Thrift Store Deal into a Pro Studio Case

Written by
SW Hammond
Published on
05 July 2025

I’m back with CraftTested, transforming a beat-up Anvil road case I snagged for $60 at a thrift store into a sleek studio piece! Follow this step-by-step DIY tutorial to refinish, refoam, and add casters to your own road case—perfect for musicians, AV techs, or anyone needing rugged gear storage on a budget.

What You’ll Learn

  • How to clean and prep a road case for refinishing.
  • Tips for masking hardware and applying Plasti Dip for a durable finish.
  • How to replace gooey foam with open- and closed-cell foam.
  • Adding casters for mobility (and why quality matters for heavy use).
  • Common pitfalls to avoid, like sloppy masking or cheap casters.

Tools and Materials Needed

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Here’s what I used for this road case restoration:

Transcript

00:00:00 - 00:00:33
Hey, what's up? Get ready for some road case restoration.

00:00:33 - 00:00:55
I picked up this road case from Ark Thrift Stores for a steal—about $60 on a 50% off day. These Anvil road cases usually cost hundreds or thousands, so I was stoked.

00:00:55 - 00:01:16
It was beat up with scratches and normal wear, but the real issue was the foam inside starting to deteriorate into sticky, smelly goo.

00:01:16 - 00:02:06
Old foam, after a decade, either crumbles or turns gooey. This one was goo, so I ripped it out, gave the case a fresh coat of paint, and added wheels to make it like new.

00:02:06 - 00:03:02
Here’s the case as I bought it—scuffs, scrapes, but decent. I masked off the hardware with blue painter’s tape, which was tedious but critical. I wish I’d spent more time on the corners, as you’ll see.

00:03:02 - 00:04:22
I used a palm sander to smooth scuffs and rough up the vinyl surface for better paint adhesion. I chose Plasti Dip for a durable, rubbery finish, applying it in horizontal and diagonal coats to avoid streaks.

00:04:22 - 00:05:52
Plasti Dip is awesome—available at big box stores, though Ace Hardware has the best selection. I added a metallic topcoat with a subtle purple hue and metal flakes for a polished look.

00:05:52 - 00:07:19
Be careful removing the tape, as Plasti Dip can peel if you don’t cut seams cleanly. The finished case has a subtle purple glint, though I messed up one corner—only I notice it.

00:07:19 - 00:09:50
I added casters on a half-inch plywood plate for mobility, matching the case’s material. These cheap locking casters are fine for light use (like a coffee table), but get high-quality ones for heavy travel. Use blue Loctite on nuts for durability.

00:09:50 - 00:11:33
The caster plate uses toothed nuts pounded into the wood for easy removal. Locking casters keep it stable as a coffee table or stage piece.

00:11:33 - 00:13:28
I replaced the foam with 1-inch closed-cell foam on the bottom for weight support and 1-inch open-cell foam on the sides and top for cushioning. Used 3M #24 spray adhesive to secure it.

00:13:28 - 00:14:44
Let the case air out for a few days to remove adhesive smells. The finished case is perfect for storing microphones, lenses, and camera gear in my studio.

00:14:44 - 00:16:00
This project is easy—anyone with a drill and basic tools can do it. Check the description for tools and materials. Let me know how your restoration goes!

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