DIY Road Case Restoration: Turn a Thrift Store Deal into a Pro Studio Case
DIY Road Case Restoration: Turn a Thrift Store Deal into a Pro Studio Case
I’m back with CraftTested, transforming a beat-up Anvil road case I snagged for $60 at a thrift store into a sleek studio piece! Follow this step-by-step DIY tutorial to refinish, refoam, and add casters to your own road case—perfect for musicians, AV techs, or anyone needing rugged gear storage on a budget.
What You’ll Learn
- How to clean and prep a road case for refinishing.
- Tips for masking hardware and applying Plasti Dip for a durable finish.
- How to replace gooey foam with open- and closed-cell foam.
- Adding casters for mobility (and why quality matters for heavy use).
- Common pitfalls to avoid, like sloppy masking or cheap casters.
Tools and Materials Needed
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Here’s what I used for this road case restoration:
- White Plasti Dip
- Violet Metalizer Plasti Dip (look for a better price, ~$8/can at Ace Hardware)
- Locking Casters (buy heavier duty for road use)
- Closed-Cell Foam, Polyethylene 2.2LB, 1 Inch Thick
- Open-Cell Foam, High Density Firm, 1 Inch Thick
- 3M #24 Spray Adhesive
- 3/8” T-Nut
- 3/8-16 x 1-1/4” Bolt
- 3/8 x 1-1/2” Fender Washer
- 1/4-20” Lock Nut
- 1/4”, 5/8” OD Washer
- 1/4-20 x 3/4” Hex Bolt
00:00:00 - 00:00:33
Hey, what's up? Get ready for some road case restoration.
00:00:33 - 00:00:55
I picked up this road case from Ark Thrift Stores for a steal—about $60 on a 50% off day. These Anvil road cases usually cost hundreds or thousands, so I was stoked.
00:00:55 - 00:01:16
It was beat up with scratches and normal wear, but the real issue was the foam inside starting to deteriorate into sticky, smelly goo.
00:01:16 - 00:02:06
Old foam, after a decade, either crumbles or turns gooey. This one was goo, so I ripped it out, gave the case a fresh coat of paint, and added wheels to make it like new.
00:02:06 - 00:03:02
Here’s the case as I bought it—scuffs, scrapes, but decent. I masked off the hardware with blue painter’s tape, which was tedious but critical. I wish I’d spent more time on the corners, as you’ll see.
00:03:02 - 00:04:22
I used a palm sander to smooth scuffs and rough up the vinyl surface for better paint adhesion. I chose Plasti Dip for a durable, rubbery finish, applying it in horizontal and diagonal coats to avoid streaks.
00:04:22 - 00:05:52
Plasti Dip is awesome—available at big box stores, though Ace Hardware has the best selection. I added a metallic topcoat with a subtle purple hue and metal flakes for a polished look.
00:05:52 - 00:07:19
Be careful removing the tape, as Plasti Dip can peel if you don’t cut seams cleanly. The finished case has a subtle purple glint, though I messed up one corner—only I notice it.
00:07:19 - 00:09:50
I added casters on a half-inch plywood plate for mobility, matching the case’s material. These cheap locking casters are fine for light use (like a coffee table), but get high-quality ones for heavy travel. Use blue Loctite on nuts for durability.
00:09:50 - 00:11:33
The caster plate uses toothed nuts pounded into the wood for easy removal. Locking casters keep it stable as a coffee table or stage piece.
00:11:33 - 00:13:28
I replaced the foam with 1-inch closed-cell foam on the bottom for weight support and 1-inch open-cell foam on the sides and top for cushioning. Used 3M #24 spray adhesive to secure it.
00:13:28 - 00:14:44
Let the case air out for a few days to remove adhesive smells. The finished case is perfect for storing microphones, lenses, and camera gear in my studio.
00:14:44 - 00:16:00
This project is easy—anyone with a drill and basic tools can do it. Check the description for tools and materials. Let me know how your restoration goes!
